I'm a Russian Israeli, I tell my fellow Americans on occasion. Read: I was born in Russia and when I was 8, we moved to Israel. My hometown, Moscow, has changed plenty since then, and every visit - 5 in total, since we left, it presents itself in a new light. This summer I spent 5 days there with my mom, and gained a whole new perspective on it. Moscow, you see, isn't the 'European' city tourists dream up when they go to Europe.
Moscow's weather was kind to me
For every 'cute', 'picturesque' alley there's a noisy, 4 lane street you must cross underground. The service isn't very good and the style isn't always stylish. To put it simply, it's a curious mix of Communist era staples (socks and sandals, grumpy salesmen, potato salad bombarded with mayo, depressing architecture) and hip, fresh influences from London and Berlin (read next paragraph.
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So how do you get the cool, modern Moscow and not the old-school, mayonnaise-drenched one? I did my research, and now present you the New Moscow guide.
FOOD
Let's start with the most important meal of the day, shall we? Moscow offers some of the most indulgent breakfasts I've ever had - and the calories match the flavor. It's full cheese, butter and flour galore, unapologetic and very very tempting . Bulka Bakery is a cute, pristine mini-chain specializing in everything yummy and indulgent for breakfast, including (say it with me!) Guryevskaya Kasha - an old Russian delicacy in the form of baked sweet porridge with nuts and fruits. I was sceptical, but changed my tune very quickly.
Let's start with the most important meal of the day, shall we? Moscow offers some of the most indulgent breakfasts I've ever had - and the calories match the flavor. It's full cheese, butter and flour galore, unapologetic and very very tempting . Bulka Bakery is a cute, pristine mini-chain specializing in everything yummy and indulgent for breakfast, including (say it with me!) Guryevskaya Kasha - an old Russian delicacy in the form of baked sweet porridge with nuts and fruits. I was sceptical, but changed my tune very quickly.
 Pancakes and cheese pancakes at Shodoladnitsa |  Bulka's baked porridge |
Another go-to are the delicious Sriniki (chubby cheese pancakes) at Shokoladnitsa, a surprisingly good Starbucks-like nationwide chain. Lastly, in the upper-class alleys of Patriarshye Prudi, awaits an adorable place called Breakfast Cafe, which offers unique dishes and impossible-to-resist layer cakes. Yes, for breakfast. You're on vacation, after all.
As far as lunch or dinner concerned, I managed to try a number of places, but fell in love with only one - Simple Things, a place I heard and read a lot about previously. The chef knows his stuff and trendy farm-to-table moments only make everything better.
I vaguely remember ordering two herring appetizers, since it was the best herring appetizer I ever had.
As far as lunch or dinner concerned, I managed to try a number of places, but fell in love with only one - Simple Things, a place I heard and read a lot about previously. The chef knows his stuff and trendy farm-to-table moments only make everything better.
I vaguely remember ordering two herring appetizers, since it was the best herring appetizer I ever had.
 Breakfast Cafe |  Herring by Simple Things |
SHOPPING
Truth be told, even with the currently low dollar rate, Moscow isn't the cheapest or the best place to shop. Some stores still carry a musky, suspicious 90s atmosphere, while others turned into H&M and Zara franchises. A few places - they're hard to find, mind you - are truly impressive and innovative and I'd go straight there instead of the unnecessary posh malls. One such place is Traffic, an underground (literally) boutique with Scandinavian and French labels. It's chic and vast, with quite a few Sale racks with less steep prices.
Truth be told, even with the currently low dollar rate, Moscow isn't the cheapest or the best place to shop. Some stores still carry a musky, suspicious 90s atmosphere, while others turned into H&M and Zara franchises. A few places - they're hard to find, mind you - are truly impressive and innovative and I'd go straight there instead of the unnecessary posh malls. One such place is Traffic, an underground (literally) boutique with Scandinavian and French labels. It's chic and vast, with quite a few Sale racks with less steep prices.
Brusov Ship
Another fashion sport worthy of navigation is Hohlovka, a group of small young designer boutiques, coffee houses and vintage stores hiding in an abandoned residential building. It's very alternative, too hip for words, and the salesmen are curious types. Something similar - only on a docking cruise ship! - can be found on the Brusov Ship - a clever hipster idea with a hair salon, an English school and frequent parties, although the fashion isn't as good.
 Creativity abound |  Le Picnic's fashion event |
And finally, if you want to get a glimpse of the up-and-coming Moscow fashion scene, follow Le Picnic on Facebook - a fun initiative in the best traditions of design markets. Smiley girls designing t-shirts, illustrators, jewelry brands and, of course, ping pong tables (Moscow is obsessed with them right now) in surprising pop-up locations. I got there by accident and felt right at home.
HOTEL
If, like me, you're a Moscow native and have relatives living in the suburban parts of Moscow who invite you to stay with the, I have one word for you - don't. Stay here - my mom found Hotel Fligel by accident and insisted we stay here. It's central, cozy and friendly - one staff member climbed into the shower (!) in a suit (!!) to demonstrate how the sophisticated shower head works. Creepy? Sweet? Moscow hospitality at its best? I vote for the latter.
If, like me, you're a Moscow native and have relatives living in the suburban parts of Moscow who invite you to stay with the, I have one word for you - don't. Stay here - my mom found Hotel Fligel by accident and insisted we stay here. It's central, cozy and friendly - one staff member climbed into the shower (!) in a suit (!!) to demonstrate how the sophisticated shower head works. Creepy? Sweet? Moscow hospitality at its best? I vote for the latter.
Good night!
ART AND NIGHTLIFE
Curiously, Moscow's art and nightlife scenes often collide - clubs hosted in art spaces are all the rage, with Arma, Winzavod and Flacon to name a few. Winzavod, an old factory converted to galleries, shops and the occasional party, is my long time favorite, so spacious, peaceful and unique. A new discovery for me was BAR EMA, a hyped-up and much recommended art space and night club in a big, gated industrial building. I was under the impression that all of Moscow's coolest, most trend-aware, nicest people showed up there at once on the night of my visit, which is not a bad thing.
Curiously, Moscow's art and nightlife scenes often collide - clubs hosted in art spaces are all the rage, with Arma, Winzavod and Flacon to name a few. Winzavod, an old factory converted to galleries, shops and the occasional party, is my long time favorite, so spacious, peaceful and unique. A new discovery for me was BAR EMA, a hyped-up and much recommended art space and night club in a big, gated industrial building. I was under the impression that all of Moscow's coolest, most trend-aware, nicest people showed up there at once on the night of my visit, which is not a bad thing.
EMA Bar
If dancing on a vintage rug to house music isn't you thing, there are a couple interesting bars I liked - Moscow is experiencing a general decompressing and de-glamourization in its nightlife, and that means low key, truly fun places vs. big chandeliers and models in mini skirts. Sosna i Lipa (Pine and Linden, in English) was a small craft beer hipster haven on a central street, and Bar Noor held an awesome backyard party with Indian and Gypsy tunes, which proved to be very Tel Avivian (read: effortless, nonchalant and cool, no dress code or other famed Moscow shenanigans).
Been to Moscow lately and seen something cool? I want to know.